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Earthworks > 3/8" wedge bolt (hardware store variety, not a climbing bolt). Removed from "the Foot" in Ojai. The hole was originally under-drilled and thus not deep enough to accommodate the full length of the bolt. The person placing the bolt apparently pounded on the bolt trying to drive it deeper than the hole would allow. The head of the bolt, the nut, and the threads were all mashed over and severely damaged. There is no evidence that the bolt was ever tightened. The bolt was pulled straight out of its hole using a claw hammer and only moderate pressure.

Earthworks > 1/4" push-button compression bolt (a.k.a. "buttonhead" or "split-shaft"). Removed along with 2 others from atop "the Nose" at Gibraltar Rock in Santa Barbara. Only 1-1/2 inches of compression held this bolt in the wall. It was removed by driving a piton under the hanger and only required a couple of easy taps on the piton. It is amazing that these three did not fail when used to configure a top-rope anchor. All three bolt holes were ovular in shape--proving that the rock itself was not hard enough to create even slight compression of the bolt.

Earthworks > Star Dryvin 3/8" Nail & Sleeve Bolt. Removed from atop "T-Crack" at Gibraltar Rock in Santa Barbara. There are dozens of these scattered around the Gibraltar area, especially on the "Bolt Ladder" wall and at Cold Springs Dome. This particular example was removed using a small crow bar. It required minimal force to get the bolt moving.

Earthworks > 3/8-inch "Drop-In" expansion bolt. Removed from atop Klingon at Gibraltar Rock in Santa Barbara.

Earthworks > 3/8" Stud Bolt. Removed from the route "Permanent Income Hypothesis," in the Fortress near Ojai. These bolts can be quite strong in 4,000 psi rock; however, there is no way to know how well the bolt has been placed and how much expansion has been achieved. As a result, these bolts vary wildly in pull-out strength from one placement to the other.

Earthworks > Another 3/8" Stud Bolt removed from the Fortress. Notice how widely this unit has expanded. Clearly, the walls of the hole that was drilled broke away allowing the bolt to expand well beyond the original confines. In other words, the soft sandstone that this bolt was placed in could not resist the expansion of the bolt.

Earthworks > 1/2" wedge bolt. Removed from atop "Peels of Laughter" at San Ysidro in Santa Barbara. This is one of those worst-case-scenarios. Prior to its removal, the bolt had already begun backing out of its hole. It was removed using a small crowbar. It goes completely against common sense that a bolt this big can be pulled from rock without the use of heavy duty equipment.

Earthworks > Just to give you a sense how huge the failed 1/2" bolt is, here it is alongside a standard 3/8" wedge bolt.

Earthworks > 3/8" externally-threaded sleeve bolt. One of two removed from atop "the Rapture" at Lower Gibraltar in Santa Barbara. This type of bolt is used for all of the lead bolts on that route. They are actually only 1/4" in diameter (even less on the threaded portion of the bolt).

3/8" wedge bolt (hardware store variety, not a climbing bolt). Removed from "the Foot" in Ojai. The hole was originally under-drilled and thus not deep enough to accommodate the full length of the bolt. The person placing the bolt apparently pounded on the bolt trying to drive it deeper than the hole would allow. The head of the bolt, the nut, and the threads were all mashed over and severely damaged. There is no evidence that the bolt was ever tightened. The bolt was pulled straight out of its hole using a claw hammer and only moderate pressure.

Camera: Nikon Corporation (Nikon D1x) |

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Keywords: foothill

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